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全球化形象与环保形象对消费行为意向的影响——基于国际快时尚品牌H&M的案例

本站小编 Free考研考试/2021-12-29

刘博1,2,, 朱竑2
1. 广东金融学院工商管理系,广州 510521
2. 华南师范大学文化地理与文化产业研究中心,广州 510631

Influence of perceived brand globalness and environmental image on consumption intentions: A case study of H&M

LIUBo1,2,, ZHUHong2
1. Department of Business Management, Guangdong University of Finance, Guangzhou 510521, China
2. Center for Cultural Industry and Cultural Geography, South China Normal University, Guangzhou 510631, China
收稿日期:2016-09-22
修回日期:2017-01-5
网络出版日期:2017-04-20
版权声明:2017《地理学报》编辑部本文是开放获取期刊文献,在以下情况下可以自由使用:学术研究、学术交流、科研教学等,但不允许用于商业目的.
基金资助:国家自然科学基金项目(41301140, 41571129)科技部973计划前期研究专项(2014CB460614)广东省自然科学基金项目(2015A030313703)
作者简介:
-->作者简介:刘博(1979-), 女, 河北石家庄人, 博士, 副教授, 研究方向为时尚品牌与地方认同。E-mail: 114659591@qq.com



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摘要
全球化与消费主义盛行的时代,过度消费与环境保护之间的矛盾持续存在。消费者在追求物质满足的同时环境意识渐增,而品牌则以全球化形象与环保形象来响应消费者的需求变化。以国际快时尚品牌H&M为研究案例,使用结构方程模型,回收有效问卷265份,采用SPSS 19.0和Lisrel 8.72软件进行分析,探讨跨地方经营背景下,国际快时尚品牌全球化形象与环保形象如何影响中国消费者的消费行为意向。研究发现:① 消费者全球文化身份对品牌全球化形象感知的总影响、品牌全球化感知对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的总影响最大,表明全球化与现代性仍然是中国消费者品牌购买行为意向的最重要影响因素。② 消费者环境友好自我身份与品牌环保形象感知对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的影响最弱,即自认为具有环境友好自我身份的消费者仍然在支持快时尚品牌,验证了在生产与消费空间分离背景下,国际快时尚品牌塑造品牌环保形象是资本追求利润最大化的品牌经营策略。同时检验中国消费者的身份建构与国际快时尚品牌形象对消费行为意向的影响,有助于理解在国际快时尚品牌跨地方经营过程中供需双方的互动关系及背后的文化地理逻辑,也更加深刻地剖析全球化背景下资本追逐利润最大化过程中的品牌经营环保局限。

关键词:快时尚品牌;全球化形象;环保形象;品牌认同
Abstract
As globalization and consumerism is prevalent, there always exist conflicts between consumption and environment. While consumers are in the pursuit of material satisfaction, they also care much about global environment. In response to the demands of consumers, brands built up global image and environmental image to retain their customers and develop new markets. Taking an example of H&M, we collected 265 copies of effective questionnaires, with the aid of SPSS 19.0 and Lisrel 8.72, to examine the impact of fast fashion brand images on consumption behavior intentions of Chinese consumers. The findings are as follows: (1) Global cultural identity plays a critical role in the perceived brand globalness and the perceived brand globalness has the biggest influence on consumption behavior intentions in turn. That means that globalization and modernity are still the most important factors which influence Chinese consumers' brand purchase intention. (2) Pro-environmental self-identity and environmental image of brand has weak influence on Chinese consumers' brand purchase intention of the international fast fashion brand, namely consumers who claim high environmental consciousness still support fast fashion brands which are believed to intensify environmental crisis on the earth. Theoretically, this verifies the fact that with the space separation of production and consumption, international fast fashion brands put efforts on building environmental brand image in order to pursue capital profit maximization. Testing the influence of the identity construction of Chinese consumers and the shape of international fast fashion brand images on consumption behavioral intentions in an integrated model will help to understand the interaction between supply and demand and further reveal the influence of global fashion culture on Chinese consumers and the environmental limitation behind the brand environmental image strategy.

Keywords:fast fashion;perceived brand globalness;environmental image;brand identity

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刘博, 朱竑. 全球化形象与环保形象对消费行为意向的影响——基于国际快时尚品牌H&M的案例[J]. , 2017, 72(4): 699-710 https://doi.org/10.11821/dlxb201704011
LIU Bo, ZHU Hong. Influence of perceived brand globalness and environmental image on consumption intentions: A case study of H&M[J]. 地理学报, 2017, 72(4): 699-710 https://doi.org/10.11821/dlxb201704011

1 引言

人类活动的环境影响一直是地理学关注的重要话题[1,2],其中消费日益受到关注[3-5]。全球化与消费主义盛行的时代,过度消费与环境保护之间始终存在紧张关系。裹胁在全球化这一大趋势下,发展中国家消费者常常表现出对发达国家消费文化、生活方式甚至身份的认同,倾向于选购全球化品牌以彰显个体身份与地位,建构其全球文化身份认同[6-7]。消费主义不断刺激消费者的欲望与需求,与现代时尚合谋,鼓励紧随时尚,快速更换所拥有的物品,从而对环境造成巨大压力。值得庆幸的是,环保意识已经成为全球公民精神的重要表达[8]。具有全球文化身份认同的发展中国家消费者,既注重物质享受,又特别关心环保问题[9]。可持续消费(Sustainable Consumption)、道德消费(Ethical Consumption)、绿色消费(Green Consumption)等都强调消费者的环保责任,鼓励缩减消费,并期望由此改善地球环境[10]。消费者的环境意识逐渐增强,他们常常宣称具有环境友好的自我身份。事实上,关注自身生存环境的消费者常常需要在紧随时尚的物质满足所带来的快乐与坚持环保的社会责任感之间权衡。而且,由于商品生产与消费在地理上呈现出分离状态,不同地方的消费者也存在较大的经济社会文化差异,消费者说什么与做什么之间可能存在鸿沟[9]。换言之,消费者关心环境的宣言与他们的环保消费行为之间的关系并不确定[11]
与此同时,诸如H&M、Zara之类的国际快时尚品牌以快速响应的供应链管理模 式[12],不断缩短时尚周期、鼓励更频繁的购买和处置过时服装[13],成为更多人买得起的时尚[14],受到全球消费者青睐,成为全球品牌。然而,追逐利润最大化和促进经济增长的资本逐利本性毫无例外地体现在国际快时尚品牌全球化生产、运输、销售等整个供应链运营过程中,即通过薄利多销的策略,追逐利润最大化与企业增长[15]。而且,快时尚品牌商品使用寿命短暂,且常存在质量问题,被称为一次性时尚,对环境造成巨大压力[16],因此遭到环境保护主义者的激烈抨击。为避免环保主义者的抨击,迎合环保意识日益增强的消费者,以确保品牌的长久经营发展,快时尚品牌不得不积极采取环保措施,树立品牌环保形象,试图缓解快速消费与环保之间的紧张关系。那么,国际快时尚品牌是否在不同地方消费者心目中成功树立起环保形象,其对消费行为有何影响,仍需明确。
全球化背景下,个体消费者试图通过绿色消费影响零售甚至生产等环节的环保,权力却常常掌握在大型品牌生产商和零售商手中[17]。尽管全球品牌开始从战略上强调环境可持续发展的重要性,这一定程度上推动了消费者对环境友好产品的关注,令消费者认同全球品牌的环保形象[9],但是,国际快时尚品牌供应链分散在全球各地,生产者与消费者在地理空间上呈现隔离状态,品牌全球化的过程也使得消费群体存在社会分离,这均导致消费者对真实的供应链知之甚少[17]。另外,鉴于环保科学的复杂性,很多消费者并不能完全理解环境问题与自身消费行为之间的联系,不能全面掌握服装环境知识,从而易于受到品牌环保宣传所树立的环保形象的影响。有研究从文化比较视角分析了在中国和英国不同文化背景下,环境友好自我身份对环保消费行为的影响[18]。人文地理****分析了品牌与品牌化地理过程[19]、品牌[20]与时尚消费品[21-22]的空间分布状况。然而,基于环保视角,针对特定品牌的研究尚不多见,有必要增进对品牌形象与消费者身份的匹配方式及对消费者环保消费行为的影响方式的认识[23]
本文构建了消费者全球文化身份与环境友好自我身份、品牌全球化形象与环保形象、品牌认同与消费行为意向的概念模型,采用结构方程模型进行分析,试图探讨跨地方经营背景下,中国消费者的文化认同如何响应国际快时尚品牌H&M塑造的全球化形象与环保形象,及其在消费行为意向上的体现。研究结论将有助于理解国际快时尚品牌经营策略与消费行为意向背后的文化地理逻辑。

2 研究假设与概念模型

2.1 消费者全球文化身份

全球身份认同(Global Identity)主要指对“全球公民身份”的认同,在发展中国家常常表现为对西方发达国家消费文化、生活方式甚至身份的认同[24]。在全球化进程中,各个国家和地区的消费者已经策略性地发展出全球身份和本土身份双重认同[24]。对中国新一代年轻消费者的研究认为,他们有着全球化和本土化并存的价值观体系,体现出全球与本土双重身份认同[25],由此呈现出本土与全球的杂糅的消费文化景观[26]。一般来说,发展中国家的消费者认为西方品牌和产品质量更优,从而更加青睐西方品牌和产品,并且通过拥有全球化(西方)品牌向同伴显示自己的全球身份[27];而且消费者追求全球文化身份的消费行为更是一种本土化生存策略[28],具有全球文化身份认同的消费者常常能够灵敏地感知品牌是否具有全球化形象[9]。因此,提出假设1:消费者全球文化认同对品牌全球化形象感知有显著的正向影响。

2.2 消费者环境友好自我身份

环境友好自我身份是指个体拥有一种保护环境的友好行为的自我意识[29]。在全球范围内,“绿色”逐渐成为“酷”的追求[9]。越来越多的中国消费者也意识到消费中可能产生与生存环境、个人健康息息相关的环境问题,逐渐增强环保意识。环保意识渐强的中国消费者,较西方发达国家消费者更易于树立起环境友好自我身份[18],更愿意支持有环保责任感的品牌,在消费过程中呈现出绿色物质主义倾向[9]。然而,尽管注重环境保护,消费者却并未停止或减少飞行次数,他们以飞行产品、飞行环境和个人身份等理由正当化自己的飞行行为,在飞行公司营销时更多地选择飞行产品[30]。由于环境友好自我身份的建构常伴随全球文化认同建构进行,发展中国家消费者倾向于认为全球化企业对环境更加友好[9],可能倾向于认同国际快时尚品牌环保形象以支持其消费模式。因此,消费者环境友好自我身份对品牌环保形象感知有正向影响,提出假设2:消费者环境友好自我身份对品牌环保形象感知有显著的正向影响。

2.3 快时尚品牌全球化形象

品牌全球化形象强调消费者认为一个品牌在多个国家营销并在这些国家具有较高的全球化程度[31]。品牌全球化形象能给品牌带来诸多益处。① 发展中国家消费者倾向于认为全球化企业对环境更加友好[9],意味着全球品牌给予消费者更积极正面的品牌环保形象。② 品牌全球化形象向消费者传递质量上乘等功能价值以及地位、声望、社会支持、现代性等象征性利益[31],有助于提升品牌的身份表达能力[32]。对中国消费者对全球品牌与本土品牌的偏好研究表明,感知的品牌全球化形象和品牌本土化形象均增强品牌的身份表达,购买全球品牌的消费者认为全球品牌有助于表达现代自我形象、成为全球公民,由此消费者打开了一扇通往全球消费文化的归属之窗[27],从而增强消费者对全球品牌的认同。③ 感知的品牌全球化形象通过品牌身份表达与认同对消费行为意向产生更大影响[32]。可以认为,品牌全球化形象对品牌环保形象、品牌认同与消费行为意向均有显著正向影响,故提出:假设3a:品牌全球化形象感知对品牌环保形象感知有显著的正向影响;假设3b:品牌全球化形象感知对国际快时尚品牌认同有显著的正向影响;假设3c:品牌全球化形象感知对国际快时尚品牌购买行为意向有显著的正向影响。

2.4 快时尚品牌环保形象

环境意识强的消费者倾向于购买环保包装产品[33]。企业的环保努力会得到消费者的认同,并能够提高产品销售量。尽管国际快时尚品牌的生产、运输、零售和回收等整条供应链都对环境有不同程度的威胁,他们却通过旧衣回收等行动,试图树立环保形象,减轻消费者的内疚感,增进消费者的品牌认同与购买意向。必须强调的是,环保与利润最大化之间存在天然的矛盾[18]。正如Scales分析,资本主义逐利本性及对经济增长的无休止追求会客观上鼓励消费更多,消费更加环保或绿色并不减少消费量,这模糊了资源消费密度等本质环境问题,正所谓资本主义的“环境局限”[17]。从这一角度而言,快时尚品牌开展环保行动、进行环保宣传等,目的仍是提高销售量、获取更高的利润,体现了资本主义逻辑[17]。因此提出:假设4a:品牌环保形象感知对品牌认同有显著的正向影响;假设4b:品牌环保形象感知对国际快时尚品牌行为意向有显著的正向影响。

2.5 品牌认同

品牌认同意味着消费者认为其个性、价值观、身份等与品牌相一致[34]。品牌认同不仅是品牌商努力的结果,更是消费者自我识别的结果。消费者越来越多地参与到品牌认同的建构过程中,通过消费来建立或增强其自我身份,相应的,身份认同也是消费选择的显著预测指标[34],比态度和价值观对消费者选择的影响更大[35]。不同于传统社会,现代消费社会不再具有相对稳定的社会角色和限制消费的规范,这为消费者提供了通过消费工业化时尚产品而建构新的“自我”的途径[36]。“我是谁”是通过“我拥有什么”来体现的,商品世界成为一个异化社会化、形成社会化的身份定位的世界[37]。想象与对转瞬即逝的愉悦的追求,规训着现代消费者,认同性已不再深刻[36]。时尚品牌消费是对性别、阶级、角色等的扮演[28]。由此,快时尚品牌商品兼具物质意义上的使用价值和社会意义上的符号价值。消费者通过尝试新的款式、设计和风格等来建构新的情感身份与品牌认同[38],体现在其品牌消费行为意向上,具体包括购买意向、支付更高价格和口头宣传3个维度。本文提出假设5:国际快时尚品牌认同对国际快时尚品牌行为意向有显著的正向影响。
根据上述假设,本文的概念模型如图1所示。
显示原图|下载原图ZIP|生成PPT
图1国际快时尚品牌购买行为意向的概念模型
-->Fig. 1Conceptual model of purchasing intention ofinternational fast fashion brands
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3 研究方法与过程

3.1 案例介绍

H&M集团由1947年瑞典韦斯特罗斯Hennes(瑞典语中“她”的意思)女装商店发展而来,1968年公司更名为Hennes &Mauritz,简称H&M。至今已在全世界64个国家或地区开设4200多家门店,提供H&M、COS、Monki、Weekday、Cheap Monday和Other Stories品牌的时装,以及H&M Home家居饰品①(http://about.hm.com/en/about-us/markets-and-expansion.html),是全球第二大服装零售商。在BRANDZ发布的2012年“全球最具价值品牌百强排行榜”中,快时尚品牌H&M位列第58。1974年H&M在斯德哥尔摩证券交易所上市;1998年开始推出网上购物业务;2004年推出设计师合作系列产品,合作设计师包括Stella McCartney、Vikto&Rolf、Madonna、Roberto Cavalli、Comme des Gar?ons、Matthew Williamson、Jimmy Choo、Sonia Rykiel、Lanvin、Versace、Marni、David Beckham、Anna Dello Russo、Maison Martin Margiela、Isabel Marant和Alexander Wang等。然而,近几年来,H&M受到来自国际环保组织以及环保主义消费者等对其越来越多的“血汗工厂”、“污染环境”和“供应链浪费”等的激烈批评,在中国大城市其门店逐渐沦为打折大卖场(②http://www.legaldaily.com.cn/Finance_and_Economics/content/2016-04/26/content_6602606.htm?node=75679)。2013年H&M开始在部分门店开展全球性的“旧衣回收计划”,承诺改变生产、使用和处理衣服的方式,目标是减少浪费,实现时装生产的闭环循环(③http://about.hm.com/zh/About/sustainability/commitments/reduce-waste/garment-collecting.html)。2010年开始出具“环保自觉行动(Conscious Actions)”,在一线城市开设环保主题店铺,强调品牌的可持续发展(④http://sustainability.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/CSR/reports/Conscious%20Actions%20Sust ainability%20Report%202010_en.pdf)。因此,该案例成为探讨国际快时尚品牌全球形象与环保形象对消费者购买行为意向影响的较佳案例。

3.2 问卷设计与变量衡量

问卷设计参考了以往研究量表,并请文化地理和企业管理专家进行修改,经预测试后定稿,相关概念的测量及参考文献如表1所示。问卷采用7级李克特量表,包括消费者全球文化身份与环境友好自我身份、品牌全球化形象与环保形象、品牌认同与购买行为意向共6个概念,共计25条陈述。特别设置了1条反向测量项目,即环境友好自我身份中的第4条“我不愿意我的亲朋好友认为我是关心环境的人”,以识别填写质量,后续数据处理过程会先将其折算为正向描述分值。同时审查是否存在极端值以剔除无效问卷,以保证问卷质量。
Tab. 1
表1
表1概念测量
Tab. 1Specific measurement in each dimension
概念编码测量项目参考文献
全球文化身份(Global Cultural Identity, GCI)GCI1我对全球世界有很强的依恋情感Strizhakova Y, Coulter R A, 2013[9]
GCI2我感觉与全球世界联系密切
GCI3我认为自己是全球公民
GCI4认为自己是全球公民对我来说很重要
环境友好自我身份(Pro-environmental Self-identity, PESI)PESI1我认为自己是环境友好的消费者Werff E V D, Steg L, Keizer K, 2013[29]; Dermody J, Hanmer-Lloyd S, Koenig-Lewis N, et al., 2015[18]
PESI2每个消费者通过购买环保企业的产品而积极影响社会
PESI3我认为自己是很关心环境议题的人
PESI4我不愿意我的亲朋好友认为我是关心环境的人
品牌全球化感知(Perceived Brand Globalness, PBG)PBG1我认为H&M是一个全球品牌Xie Y, Batra R, Peng S Q, 2015[32]
PBG2我认为海外消费者会购买H&M品牌
PBG3H&M品牌在全球范围内销售
品牌环保形象感知(Environmental Image, EI)EI1H&M品牌是一个注重环保的品牌Xue F, 2014[39]
EI2H&M品牌为消费者提供环保服装
EI3H&M品牌致力于解决服装领域的环保问题
EI4我认为环保人士会购买H&M品牌
品牌认同
(Identity, ID)
ID1H&M品牌契合我的个人身份Xie Y, Batra R, Peng S Q,2015[32]
ID2购买H&M品牌有助于表达我的身份
ID3H&M品牌清楚说明了我想成为的那类人
ID4使用H&M品牌让我成为志趣相投的消费者社群一员
品牌消费行为意向(Behavioral Intention, BI)BI1在快时尚品牌中,我会优先选择H&M品牌Xie Y, Batra R, Peng S Q,2015[32]
BI2我还会再次购买H&M品牌
BI3我会购买H&M的新款商品
BI4我愿意为H&M的环保产品支付更高价格
BI5我愿意向朋友推荐H&M品牌
BI6我会对其他人说H&M品牌的好话


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3.3 抽样调查与样本概况

问卷于2016年6月10-24日通过问卷星网站正式发放,共回收问卷302份。在剔除反向测量项目识别出的无效问卷和存在极端值的无效问卷之后,获得有效问卷265份,有效率为87.85%。为保证统计合理的结构方程模型分析结果,关键样本量大小的确定方法主要有两种:一是样本量在待估参数数目的5倍以上即可[40];二是样本量至少100以上方可获得合理可靠的结果,样本量达到200则能显著降低样本非正态分布的风险[41]。因此,本研究有效问卷265份能够充分满足样本要求。问卷分析采用SPSS 19.0和Lisrel 8.72软件进行描述性统计、数据质量分析和结构方程模型分析。
样本概况如下:性别方面,女性约占80.2%,男性约占19.8%;年龄分布为:18~25岁之间占40.8%,26~30岁之间占25.3%,31~35岁之间占16.6%,36~40岁占9.8%,41岁及以上占7.6%;月平均收入情况为:2000元以下群体占19.2%,2001~5000元占28.9%,5001~8000元占30.4%,8000元以上占21.5%;职业广泛分布在生产、销售、市场、行政、人力资源、财务技术、文职、管理、专业技术等领域;样本所在地域包括北京、上海、南京、青岛、杭州、广州、深圳、福州、厦门、南宁等27个城市。概括而言,样本具有女性为主、年轻化、收入层次多样化、职业类型广泛和分布地域广泛等特点,这与H&M品牌定位基本一致,且与其近几年在中国大陆迅速扩张的地理现实相符。

4 数据分析结果

数据分析采用二阶段分析法。首先利用SPSS 19.0进行描述性统计分析,并检验量表的可靠性和有效性[42],以确保数据质量。然后,用Lisrel 8.72进行结构方程拟合,并检验模型的拟合程度及相关概念之间的直接和间接影响。采用国内外****在结构方程模型分析中普遍采用的方法,将各个隐变量的计量尺度分为两个子尺度(后称“指标”),再以子尺度的项目评分平均数作为相应概念的计量指标,减少模型中待估参数的数量,提高计量指标的信度,增强参数估计的稳定性[43]表2给出各指标的平均值和标准差,平均值在3.647~5.162之间,评分偏高。由于问卷有反向测量项目,需将反向测量项目翻转后进行描述性统计。
Tab. 2
表2
表2变量的平均值和标准差
Tab. 2Means and variations
变量指标包含的项目平均值标准差
GCIGCIAGCI1, GCI34.6001.105
GCIBGCI2, GCI44.5421.412
PESIPESIAPESI1, PESI34.9621.206
PESIBPESI2, PESI45.1621.162
PBGPBGAPBG1, PBG34.9641.300
PBGBPBG24.8871.391
EIEIAEI1, EI34.1771.228
EIBEI2, EI44.1091.169
IDIDAID1, ID33.7511.300
IDBID2, ID43.6471.329
BIBIABI1, BI3, BI54.2381.322
BIBBI2, BI4, BI64.2911.260


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4.1 数据质量分析

变量的信度用内部一致性系数(Cronbach α值,通称α值)测量。本文中所有指标对变量的α值均大于0.70,最小为0.845,最大为0.941(表3),说明数据相当可靠。
Tab. 3
表3
表3数据的信度
Tab. 3The result of data reliability analysis
概念GCIPESIPBGEIIDBI
指标数目222222
α值0.9000.8450.8990.9250.9410.939

注:SPSS 19.0统计分析结果整理所得。
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数据效度主要包括内容效度、会聚效度和鉴别效度。内容效度主要依靠以往研究量表、专家意见和预测试来保证。会聚效度和鉴别效度利用结构方程模型的确认性因子分析获得数据整理得出。在检验结构方程模型之前,研究者应首先评估计量模型[43]。采用Lisrel 8.72软件的极大似然估计程序,以各变量指标的相关系数矩阵为输入矩阵,对模型中的6个概念进行确认性因子分析。计量模型与数据的拟合程度良好:卡方值与自由度之比为2.17,小于5;拟合优度(GFI)为0.95,大于0.90;调整后的拟合优度(AGFI)为0.90,等于0.90;近似均方差残根(RMSEA)为0.067,小于0.08。这些统计结果均表明,计量模型与数据的拟合程度高。
会聚效度测量同一概念的不同项目之间的关联程度,如果计量模型中指标的因子载荷都是高度显著的,则说明数据具有很好的会聚效度。Lisrel 8.72确认性因子分析结果表明,本文计量模型中指标的因子载荷在0.76到0.96之间,都大于0.70;所有指标的因子载荷都是显著的(T值在9.48和24.78之间),表明各个概念指标有较高的会聚效度。
数据的鉴别效度指不同概念之间的关联程度应足够低,足以区别不同的概念。数据鉴别效度的检验方法主要有两种:① 计算各个变量的相关系数的非标准化解与其正负两倍的标准误区间,若均不包含1,则数据具有较高的鉴别效度。本文数据中,区间内均不包含1,数据鉴别效度较高(表4)。② 比较各个变量的解释方差与它们和其他概念的协方差,如果前者大于后者则说明数据具有较好的鉴别效度。这是最严格的判断数据鉴别效度的方法。本文将各个概念解释的方差与它们和其他概念形成的协方差相对比(表5),对角线上所有概念自身解释的方差都明显大于它们与其他概念的协方差,鉴别效度非常好。
Tab. 4
表4
表4各隐变量的相关系数及标准误
Tab. 4The correlation coefficient and standard error of variables
变量GCIPESIPBGEIID
PESI0.37
(0.06)
PBG0.30
(0.06)
0.27
(0.06)
EI0.32
(0.06)
0.25
(0.06)
0.25
(0.06)
ID0.32
(0.06)
0.25
(0.06)
0.17
(0.06)
0.49
(0.07)
BI0.29
(0.06)
0.40
(0.07)
0.32
(0.06)
0.49
(0.07)
0.69
(0.07)

注:表中括号外的数字是相关系数的非标准化解,括号内的数字是标准误的大小。
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Tab. 5
表5
表5变量的相关系数、各隐变量解释的方差、各隐变量与其他变量的协方差
Tab. 5The correlation coefficient, variance explanation and covariance of variables
变量GCIPESIPBGEIIDBI
GCI0.890.180.120.160.140.11
PESI0.430.890.080.080.070.17
PBG0.350.290.820.080.040.11
EI0.400.290.290.730.310.29
ID0.380.270.190.560.820.50
BI0.330.410.330.540.710.86

注:矩阵对角线左下方为标准化相关系数矩阵,对角线上数值为各个隐变量解释的方差(AVE),对角线右上方为各个隐变量与其他隐变量的协方差(∮2)。
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4.2 概念模型的检验

利用Lisrel 8.72软件的极大似然估计程序,以各因变量指标的相关性系数矩阵为输入矩阵,对概念模型进行检验。结果显示,除RMR(0.13)略高于0.05,RMSEA(0.099)大于0.08外,其他指标情况分别为:χ2/Df(3.58)小于5.00,NFI(0.94)、NNFI(0.93)、CFI(0.96)、IFI(0.96)、RFI(0.91)和GFI(0.91)均大于0.90,AGFI(0.84)大于0.80,说明模型与数据的拟合程度较好。表6列出样本待估系数的标准化估计值,表7表8分别列出各变量的总影响和间接影响。图2描绘变量之间的因果关系。由表6可见,变量间标准化估计值的T值在1.75~6.12之间,除快时尚品牌环保形象与快时尚品牌购买意向之间关系的标准化估计值(T值1.75)在0.1水平上显著外,其他关系之间的标准化估计值都在0.05水平上显著。
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图2结构方程模型的拟合效果
注:图中数字为变量间关系的标准化解。

-->Fig. 2The fitting results of structural model
-->

Tab. 6
表6
表6标准化估计值
Tab. 6Standardized estimates
变量间的关系系数标准化估计值T
GCI (ξ1)-PBG (η1)γ1, 10.406.12
PESI (ξ2)-EI (η2)γ2, 20.284.92
PBG (η1)-EI (η2)β2, 10.335.32
PBG (η1)-ID (η3)β3, 10.243.56
PBG (η1)-BI (η4)β4, 10.324.42
EI (η2)-ID (η3)β3, 20.192.80
EI (η2)-BI (η4)β4, 20.121.75
ID (η3)-BI (η4)β4, 30.142.16

注:Lisrel 8.72概念模型检验结果整理所得。
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Tab. 7
表7
表7结构模型中变量间的总影响
Tab. 7The total influence of the variables in structural model
变量GCIPESIPBGEIID
PBG0.40
(6.12)
EI0.13
(4.12)
0.28
(4.92)
0.33
(5.32)
ID0.12
(3.90)
0.05
(2.43)
0.31
(4.84)
0.19
(2.80)
BI0.16
(4.39)
0.04
(1.95)
0.40
(5.89)
0.14
(2.14)
0.14
(2.16)

注:括号外的数字表示总影响的标准化系数,括号内的数字表示该标准化系数的T值。
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Tab. 8
表8
表8结构模型中变量间的间接影响
Tab. 8The indirect influence of the variables in structural model
变量GCIPESIPBGEI
EI0.13
(4.12)
ID0.12
(3.90)
0.05
(2.43)
0.06
(2.51)
BI0.16
(4.39)
0.04
(1.95)
0.08
(2.76)
0.03
(1.71)

注:括号外的数字表示间接影响的标准化系数,括号内的数字表示该标准化系数的T值。
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表7可见,所有变量对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的总影响均显著,其中消费者环境友好自我身份的总影响在0.1水平上显著(T值为1.95),其他变量的总影响均在0.05水平显著,T值在2.14~6.12之间。对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的总影响最大的变量是品牌全球化感知,其次是消费者全球文化身份,再次是品牌认同与品牌环保形象感知,消费者环境友好自我身份的总影响最小。而在所有影响关系中,消费者全球文化身份对品牌全球化形象感知的总影响、品牌全球化形象感知对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的总影响最大。可见全球化对消费行为意向的影响不容小觑。这说明国际快时尚品牌树立的全球化形象与消费者想要融入全球文化、获取全球文化身份认同的需求一拍即合,从而产生品牌认同,并对消费行为意向产生显著的影响。然而,消费者并非单纯追求全球化,他们同样关注时尚界的环保话题,消费者的环境友好自我身份会影响其对品牌环保形象的感知,品牌环保形象的感知则对品牌认同的总影响仅次于全球形象感知,一定程度上呼应了消费者在全球化背景下追求物质丰富的同时对环保的认同。
在所有间接影响中,消费者全球文化身份对其他变量的间接影响最大(表8),其中,对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的间接影响最大,其次是对品牌环保形象感知与品牌认同的间接影响。紧随其后的是品牌全球化感知,它对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向与品牌认同均有显著的间接影响。值得注意的是,在总影响中,品牌全球化形象感知是最大的影响因素,而在间接影响中,消费者全球文化身份则成为最大的影响因素。一定程度上说明文化认同在消费过程中的影响力。另外,消费者环境友好自我身份对品牌认同的间接影响较小,但却非常显著。消费者环境友好自我身份与品牌环保形象感知对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的间接影响最弱,且仅在0.1水平上显著。这说明,消费者所宣称的消费理念并不一定会转化为实际行动,尽管消费者有环境友好自我身份,但可能受限于环保知识或经济条件,仍然会做出对环境不利的消费行为。

5 结论与讨论

5.1 结论

综上,数据分析结果支持本文提出的8个假设。具体而言,对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的总影响最大的变量是品牌全球化感知,其次是消费者全球文化身份,再次是品牌认同与品牌环保形象感知,消费者环境友好自我身份的总影响最小。而在所有影响关系中,消费者全球文化身份对品牌全球化形象感知的总影响、品牌全球化形象感知对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的总影响最大。由此得出本文的两点结论:① 全球化与现代性仍然是中国消费者品牌购买行为意向的最重要影响因素;② 国际快时尚品牌环保形象成功俘获中国消费者的心,高环保意识的消费者仍然支持非环保品牌商品,从而提高了品牌消费意向。

5.2 讨论

首先,围绕全球化与现代性在快时尚品牌购买行为意向中的作用展开讨论。数据显示,品牌全球化形象感知对品牌环保形象感知、品牌认同与国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的总影响最大,同时,全球文化身份对品牌全球化感知的影响最大。这意味着全球化、现代性的力量对于中国消费者而言更具吸引力。正在经历全球化进程的中国消费者仍有强烈的融入全球文化、获取全球文化身份认同的需求,在服饰上表现为视全球品牌为时尚指针,问卷调查对象话语中多次出现“设计不错”、“潮”、“款式丰富”、“有品位”甚至“健康生活”等表达。这表明,国际快时尚品牌通过在全球范围内跨地方经营树立起全球化形象[44],将品牌与消费者经由全球文化关联起来,从而产生品牌认同,并对消费行为意向产生显著的积极影响。弗里德曼在《文化认同与全球性过程》一书前言中指出,作为产品的文化是被抽离了特定地方生活经验的文化[45]。国际快时尚品牌塑造的全球化形象与中国消费者建构的全球文化身份认同,尽管是被抽离了西方生活经验的文化,却有其本土文化根基,那就是中国经济实力的逐渐壮大与消费阶层的崛起。
第二,讨论品牌环保形象在快时尚品牌购买行为意向中的作用。数据显示,品牌环保形象的感知对品牌认同的总影响仅次于品牌全球化形象感知,消费者环境友好自我身份与品牌环保形象感知对国际快时尚品牌消费行为意向的间接影响却最弱。中国消费者对国际快时尚品牌环保形象的响应存在两对矛盾,一是国际快时尚品牌在全球整个供应链中存在的不环保现象与其意图树立的环保形象之间的矛盾,二是消费者环境友好自我身份与并不一定环保的实际消费行为之间的矛盾。这两对矛盾背后都有其地理逻辑。
前一对矛盾利用品牌全球化经营中生产、运输、零售、回收等环节的地理空间分离来淡化品牌不环保的现实并树立起环保形象。国际快时尚品牌掌握环保行动的权力,通过树立环保形象,影响了消费者对商品环保事实的正确判断,模糊了快时尚品牌消费行为对资源与环境带来的压力,促进消费者的购买。现实地反映了跨国公司从事环保行为是保持企业增长、拓展新市场、吸引新顾客的策略,资本主义逻辑并未走远,降低环境影响并非企业追求的核心目标,企业并未改变其利润最大化的逐利本性[17]
后一对矛盾表现在具有环境友好自我身份的消费者仍然支持快时尚品牌。尽管消费者关注时尚与消费领域的环保话题,希望树立环境友好自我身份,一定程度上呼应了消费者在全球化背景下追求物质丰富的同时对环保的认同,然而其环境友好自我身份表现在实际购买行为意向上的影响却相对有限。可能的解释为,高环境意识的消费者也可能不具备有关自身消费与环境后果的知识[46],导致无法做出真正环保的消费行为,或者受到国际快时尚品牌的环保形象影响。国际快时尚品牌在全球范围内分散经营,生产过程与消费过程之间存在空间分离,不同国家消费者处于社会分离状态,因此,在零售地点甚至店铺采取的环保行为给消费者“眼见为实”的错觉,从而选择信任该品牌,产生积极的购买行为意向。甚至部分消费者刻意追求全球品牌而有意忽视品牌背后的环保真相。被调查者的话语为上述解释做出注脚。部分H&M的消费者认为H&M为他们提供“健康的生活,舒适的衣服”,H&M可以让人“穿出有品味的风格”,“性价比高”。而且,认为“快时尚有些不环保的感觉”的消费者仍会每季度光顾一次H&M商店,购买单件300~500元之间的服饰。甚至有消费者认为“快时尚有罪,但是没办法,爱他亲民和设计”。总之,两对矛盾背后有其地理与文化逻辑。
研究贡献有以下两点:① 将中国消费者的身份建构与国际快时尚品牌形象塑造关联起来,采用系统分析思路,克服以往研究或单纯聚焦消费者分析,或仅关注品牌方的局限,更易于理解在品牌跨地方经营过程中供需双方的互动关系,既剖析了全球文化对消费者的影响,又揭示了全球品牌跨地方经营的环保策略所具有的资本主义逻辑本质。② 采用量化分析方法,审视快时尚品牌消费与环境保护的矛盾,从环境视角分析全球化经营的国际时尚品牌在中国本土市场与消费者在认同上的联结,发掘消费者调适这一矛盾的文化逻辑,对品牌地理有实证价值。遗憾的是,囿于无法获得消费者总体地理分布情况,本文在调查时没有按照地域进行分层结构化抽样。鉴于本文仅采用面向消费者的数据调查,没有对品牌商进行案例研究,因此无法描绘国际快时尚品牌树立环保形象的具体过程。另外,在全球品牌进入中国后产生的文化冲突与融合问题也值得探究。未来研究可在以上几方面继续展开。
The authors have declared that no competing interests exist.

参考文献 原文顺序
文献年度倒序
文中引用次数倒序
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21 世纪以来,伴随中国社会的不断“分化”与“变迁”,典型社会文化现象不断涌现,社会文化地理学研究已成为学界所持续关注的研究领域.在初步总结国外社会文化地理学的理论演进脉络的基础上,本研究分析了过去10 年以来中国社会文化地理学研究的热点与关注,结合中国发展现状提出,本土社会文化特质的地理学研究、权利与资本对社会文化空间形态与地方建构的影响、城乡与区域人口迁移所形成的流动现象与规模效应等,是未来社会文化地理学应重点关注的研究领域.同时强调了,社会文化地理学在中国的发展,需要注重知识贡献的普适性与中国自身社会文化特质的辩证统一.
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自20 世纪70 年代以来,经济文化全球化成为微空间生产与重构的重要动力。而随着生产方式和生活方式的改变,以符号和审美消费为主的后现代消费社会范式的崛起,促使文化成为行就消费空间的主要手段之一。广州方所文化书店就是在这样的背景下催生的新生事物。贴上文化标签后的方所文化书店,一反实体书店在现代消费社会中逐步被边缘化的窘境,出现伊始就受到各界的广泛关注。研究剖析了方所文化书店这类实体书店文化身份的展演(performance),并对消费者的感知与认同进行了解读。结果显示,通过经营者对文化手段的操纵,方所文化书店被形塑成一个世界文化的微观缩影,同时也成为一个具有尊贵与典雅特质的文化新空间。而消费者通过对实体微空间的环境、商品文化及人群品质的感知,也认同了这种新的文化消费空间。实体书店在标签化的文化表征与文化变迁中完成自我救赎,同时也被消费者重新认同。
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https://doi.org/10.11821/dlxb201402004URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
自20 世纪70 年代以来,经济文化全球化成为微空间生产与重构的重要动力。而随着生产方式和生活方式的改变,以符号和审美消费为主的后现代消费社会范式的崛起,促使文化成为行就消费空间的主要手段之一。广州方所文化书店就是在这样的背景下催生的新生事物。贴上文化标签后的方所文化书店,一反实体书店在现代消费社会中逐步被边缘化的窘境,出现伊始就受到各界的广泛关注。研究剖析了方所文化书店这类实体书店文化身份的展演(performance),并对消费者的感知与认同进行了解读。结果显示,通过经营者对文化手段的操纵,方所文化书店被形塑成一个世界文化的微观缩影,同时也成为一个具有尊贵与典雅特质的文化新空间。而消费者通过对实体微空间的环境、商品文化及人群品质的感知,也认同了这种新的文化消费空间。实体书店在标签化的文化表征与文化变迁中完成自我救赎,同时也被消费者重新认同。
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. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2016, 71(2): 338-351.
https://doi.org/10.11821/dlxb201602012URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
采用结构方程模型,构建了基于原产地形象、在地消费文化、品牌知名度、感知质量、品牌忠诚度、购买意愿等6个概念的理论模型,以广州哈根达斯为例,探讨文化地理因素如何作用于哈根达斯在中国的跨地方品牌重塑。研究发现:1哈根达斯借助品牌重塑已在中国广泛确立其高档冰激凌品牌定位,实现了品牌升级,价格成为品牌升级的表征;2原产地形象、在地消费文化均显著正向影响品牌知名度及感知质量,进一步对品牌忠诚度及购买意愿产生积极影响;3哈根达斯的品牌知名度对品牌忠诚度的影响不显著,感知质量对购买意愿的影响不显著;4不同于购买频率低的消费者,购买频率高的消费者的感知质量不再受原产地形象和在地消费文化的影响。本研究有助于推进跨地方饮食文化生产理论的发展,也是对品牌重塑理论的补充,将促进饮食地理领域的国际对话。
[曾国军, 孙树芝.跨地方饮食品牌重塑的理论模型与实证分析
. 地理学报. 2016, 71(2): 338-351.]
https://doi.org/10.11821/dlxb201602012URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
采用结构方程模型,构建了基于原产地形象、在地消费文化、品牌知名度、感知质量、品牌忠诚度、购买意愿等6个概念的理论模型,以广州哈根达斯为例,探讨文化地理因素如何作用于哈根达斯在中国的跨地方品牌重塑。研究发现:1哈根达斯借助品牌重塑已在中国广泛确立其高档冰激凌品牌定位,实现了品牌升级,价格成为品牌升级的表征;2原产地形象、在地消费文化均显著正向影响品牌知名度及感知质量,进一步对品牌忠诚度及购买意愿产生积极影响;3哈根达斯的品牌知名度对品牌忠诚度的影响不显著,感知质量对购买意愿的影响不显著;4不同于购买频率低的消费者,购买频率高的消费者的感知质量不再受原产地形象和在地消费文化的影响。本研究有助于推进跨地方饮食文化生产理论的发展,也是对品牌重塑理论的补充,将促进饮食地理领域的国际对话。
[8]Whalley J.Globalisation and values
. World Economy, 2008, 31(11): 1503-1524.
[本文引用: 1]
[9]Strizhakova Y, Coulter R A.The 'green' side of materialism in emerging BRIC and developed markets: The moderating role of global cultural identity
. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 2013, 30(1): 69-82.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijresmar.2012.08.003URLMagsci [本文引用: 8]摘要
Drawing on cultural identity theory, global consumer culture theory, and sustainability research, we examine the “green” side of materialism in emerging BRIC markets and developed (U.S. and Australian) markets. We assess the moderating effect of global cultural identity on the relationship between materialism and environmentally friendly tendencies using three different conceptualizations and measures of global cultural identity — the lifestyle and brand dimensions of global consumption orientation and global connectedness. In emerging markets, we observe strong positive effects of materialism on the concern for environmentally friendly products, the willingness to pay extra for environmentally friendly products, perceptions of global companies as environmentally friendly, and the likelihood to engage in environmentally friendly tendencies for the global segment across all three conceptualizations of global cultural identity; in addition, for individuals with a glocal cultural identity, we observe a significant positive relationship between materialism and these measures of environmentally friendly tendencies. In developed markets, significant effects are observed only for the global segment, but specific effects depend on the conceptualization of a global cultural identity. Therefore, our results indicate that multinational companies focused on combining materialistic appeals with their green positioning in the emerging markets must carefully target consumers with a strong global cultural identity.
[10]Prothero A, Dobscha S, Freund J, et al.Sustainable consumption: Opportunities for consumer research and public policy
. Journal of Public Policy & Marketing, 2011, 30(1): 31-38.
URL [本文引用: 1]
[11]Kormos C, Gifford R.The validity of self-report measures of proenvironmental behavior: A meta-analytic review
. Journal of Environmental Psychology, 2014, 40: 359-371.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvp.2014.09.003URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
Do self-reports match objective behavior? We performed a meta-analysis to quantify the association between self-reported and objective measures of proenvironmental behavior, and to evaluate the moderating influence of two socio-demographic and seven methodological moderators. Data from 6260 individuals or households, involving 19 measures of association in 15 studies, revealed a positive and nominally large (Cohen, 1988) effect size ( r =.46). However, this means that 79% of the variance in the association between self-reported and objective behavior remains unexplained, which is especially troubling given the environmental context. We conclude that although this effect size is conventionally large, it is functionally small for testing theory and devising intervention campaigns, possibly leading researchers to draw misleading conclusions about the usefulness of theories that employ self-reports to predict objective behavior. These findings highlight a crucial need for research that strengthens the validity of self-reports for well-defined types of environmental behavior.
[12]Tokatli N.Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry: The case of Zara, a fast fashion retailer
. Journal of Economic Geography, 2008, 8(1): 21-38.
https://doi.org/10.1093/jeg/lbm035URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
Until recently, Zara, a major international clothing retailer and pioneer of fast fashion principles, kept almost half of its production in Spain and Portugal, earning the reputation of being one of the exceptions to globalization. Since the 1980s, the existence of such exceptions has been fueling an expectation that the production of high-quality fashion garments and tailored suits would remain in the industrialized core. Here I revisit this expectation in the light of the current seminal change in the culture of fashion from ready-to-wear to fast fashion, and report that the increased variety and fashionability associated with fast fashion, represented by Zara, have tilted the balance of competitive advantage towards, rather than away from, firms in partially industrialized countries. As a number of supplier firms in countries such as Morocco, India and Turkey have gained the competence to manufacture intricately worked high-quality garments with the required flexibility and speed, Zara has turned to sourcing from these countries. It appears that instead of Zara changing the geography of jobs, the geography of competencies and jobs has changed Zara.
[13]Cachon G P, Swinney R.The value of fast fashion: Quick response, enhanced design, and strategic consumer behavior
. Management Science, 2011, 57(4): 778-795.
https://doi.org/10.1287/mnsc.1100.1303URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
ABSTRACT A fast fashion system combines quick response production capabilities with enhanced prod- uct design capabilities, to both design "hot"products that capture the latest consumer trends and exploit minimal production leadtimes to match supply with uncertain demand. We develop a model of such a system, and compare its performance to three alternative systems: quick response-only systems, enhanced design-only systems, and traditional systems (which lack both enhanced design and quick response capabilities). In particular, we focus on the impact of each of the four systems on "strategic" or forward-looking customer purchasing behavior, i.e., the intentional delay in purchasing an item at the full price to obtain it during an end-of-season clearance. We …nd that enhanced design helps to mitigate strategic behavior by oering con- sumers a product they value more, making them less willing to risk waiting for a clearance sale and possibly experiencing a stock-out. Quick response, on the other hand, mitigates strategic behavior by reducing the chance of a clearance sale via better matching of inventory to product demand. Most importantly, we …nd that while it is possible for quick response and enhanced design to be either complements or substitutes, the complementarity eect tends to dominate. Hence, when both quick response and enhanced design are combined in a fast fashion system, the …rm typically enjoys a greater incremental increase in pro…t than the sum of the increases resulting from employing either system in isolation, roughly by a factor of two in our numerical experiments. Furthermore, the more "strategic"the population, the more dramatic the comple- mentarity. We conclude that fast fashion systems can be of signi…cant value, particularly when consumers exhibit strategic behavior.
[14]Mazaira A, González E, Avenda?o R.The role of market orientation on company performance through the development of sustainable competitive advantage: The Inditex-Zara case
. Marketing Intelligence & Planning, 2003, 21(4): 220-229.
https://doi.org/10.1108/02634500310480103URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
This paper has been developed as a part of research seeking to verify the effects of organisational culture in general, and market orientation in particular, on the behaviour and results of managerial organisations. The difference with other existing work on the same subject is that this work uses the case method to bring managerial reality into closer contact with the university environment. This report contains the first of the case studies carried out in the context of this research, and examines Zara, a strategic unit in the Inditex group, which is shown to be a paradigmatic example of the development of market orientation in a company, as a basis for the company's performance and competitive advantages.
[15]Sharma P.Country of origin effects in developed and emerging markets: Exploring the contrasting roles of materialism and value consciousness
. Journal of International Business Studies, 2011, 42(2): 285-306.
https://doi.org/10.1057/jibs.2010.16URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
Despite growing evidence about differences in the attitudes and behaviors of consumers in emerging and developed markets, there is little research on the differences in country of origin (COO) effects on their evaluation, behavioral intentions (BIs), and actual purchase of imported products. This paper introduces a new conceptual framework incorporating consumer ethnocentrism (CET), materialism (MAT), and value consciousness (VC) to hypothesize several differences in the influence of COO effects on consumers from developed and emerging markets. A web-based study with 1752 consumers in four countries representing two developed markets (the UK and the USA) and two emerging markets (China and India) shows significant differences in the moderating influence of CET, MAT, and VC on the effects of COO on the evaluations and BIs for a fictitious passenger car brand, and on the actual choice of car brands owned by them. The findings highlight the importance of looking beyond CET at other relevant psychographic variables to understand the differences in motivations underlying consumer perceptions and behavior towards imported products.
[16]Brown K W, Kasser T.Are psychological and ecological well-being compatible? The role of values, mindfulness, and lifestyle
. Social Indicators Research, 2005, 74(2): 349-368.
URL [本文引用: 1]
[17]Scales I R.Green consumption, ecolabelling and capitalism's environmental limits
. Geography Compass, 2014, 8(7): 477-489.
https://doi.org/10.1111/gec3.12142URL [本文引用: 5]摘要
Abstract Green consumption attempts to reduce capitalism's environmental impacts by influencing consumer behaviour. It is based on the premise that consumers can be provided with information about the environmental conditions of production through ‘eco’ labels and brands, enabling them to make choices about their consumptive patterns. In response to the growth in green consumerism, there has been a flourishing theoretical and empirical body of work in a wide range of social science disciplines critiquing green consumption from a broadly Marxian perspective and raising questions about capitalism's environmental limits. In this paper, I explore how recent scholarship has advanced Marxian and Green Marxian theory and consider its implications for green consumerism. I focus on the following three arguments: (i) that capitalism's emphasis on profit and a relentless pursuit of economic growth tends to create a ‘metabolic rift’ so that people are increasingly separated, spatially and socially, from the ecosystems that support them; (ii) whilst green consumerism plays up the ability of individual consumers to influence production, power tends to lie with large producers and retailers; and (iii) whilst in principle green consumption empowers consumers by providing with them greater information about the conditions of production, it tends to obscure more fundamental problems such as the intensity of resource consumption.
[18]Dermody J, Hanmer-Lloyd S, Koenig-Lewis N, et al.Advancing sustainable consumption in the UK and China: The mediating effect of pro-environmental self-identity
. Journal of Marketing Management, 2015, 31(13/14): 1472-1502.
https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2015.1061039URL [本文引用: 3]摘要
ABSTRACT In this paper, we respond to the call for more holistic and culturally diverse research to advance understanding of (non)sustainable consumption behaviour. Our conceptual model incorporates materialism, environmental concern, social consumption motivation, pro-environmental self-identity and sustainable consumption behaviours. This paper contributes to knowledge by examining the mediating role of pro-environmental self-identity to more fully explain consumers鈥 (non)sustainable consumption behaviour. An international online panel survey was employed in the UK (n = 1037) and China (n = 1025). Findings show that pro-environmental self-identity partially or fully mediates the relationships between materialism, environmental concern, social consumption motivation and sustainable consumption behaviours. Important cultural differences also emerged, for example, the positive effect of materialism on Chinese consumer鈥檚 sustainable consumption, which is contrary to Western evidence. We suggest bolder, culturally informed and more reflexive marketing strategies are needed to significantly advance sustainable consumption, thus effectively helping to redress the crisis facing our planet.
[19]Pike A.Geographies of brands and branding
. Progress in Human Geography, 2009, 33(5): 619-645.
https://doi.org/10.1111/ecge.12017URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
No abstract is available for this item.
[20]Yang Xiaoguang.Distribution of China's brands and their influence on economic pattern of China in the future
. Acta Geographical Sinica, 2005, 60(2): 189-197.
https://doi.org/10.3321/j.issn:0375-5444.2005.02.002URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
品牌是企业产品的标记,其内涵是企业和消费者之间长期形成的一种价值契约,品牌价值反映了企业的某一产品的市场地位、竞争力及其发展的优势,品牌的价值和市场成绩将直接影响企业的核心竞争力,从而影响着一个地区的经济竞争力,一个地区知名品牌的数量和质量将影响着这一地区的发展趋势,从而进一步影响着我国地区经济的格局.利用世界品牌实验室(World Brand Lab)推出的2004年中的相关品牌价值的数据,并结合各省区经济发展的基础数据,运用经济地理的空间分析方法,以省区为基本区域单元,分析了我国500强品牌的数量和品牌价值的地区差异,以及这种差异的形成原因和今后的演化趋势,并以此为基础,进一步研究了基于微观竞争主体竞争能力的区域竞争力的演变趋势,及由此可能引起的区域竞争格局的变化.
[杨晓光. 中国品牌的地区分布及其影响
. 地理学报, 2005, 60(2): 189-197.]
https://doi.org/10.3321/j.issn:0375-5444.2005.02.002URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
品牌是企业产品的标记,其内涵是企业和消费者之间长期形成的一种价值契约,品牌价值反映了企业的某一产品的市场地位、竞争力及其发展的优势,品牌的价值和市场成绩将直接影响企业的核心竞争力,从而影响着一个地区的经济竞争力,一个地区知名品牌的数量和质量将影响着这一地区的发展趋势,从而进一步影响着我国地区经济的格局.利用世界品牌实验室(World Brand Lab)推出的2004年中的相关品牌价值的数据,并结合各省区经济发展的基础数据,运用经济地理的空间分析方法,以省区为基本区域单元,分析了我国500强品牌的数量和品牌价值的地区差异,以及这种差异的形成原因和今后的演化趋势,并以此为基础,进一步研究了基于微观竞争主体竞争能力的区域竞争力的演变趋势,及由此可能引起的区域竞争格局的变化.
[21]Wei Jianglu, Luo Zhendong.Power of cities in China based on analysis on spatial pattern of advanced fashion goods sales
. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2012, 32(2): 162-168.
URL [本文引用: 1]

[韦江绿, 罗震东. 基于高端时尚消费品销售空间的中国城市控制力结构研究
. 地理科学, 2012, 32(2): 162-168.]
URL [本文引用: 1]
[22]Wang Mingfeng, Sun Ying.Globalization and the rise of fashion consumption cities in China
. Geographical Research, 2013, 32(12): 2334-2345.
https://doi.org/10.11821/dlyj201312027URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
在当前中国经济转型和产业升级的背景下,许多城市开始步入后工业化阶段,消费在城市化进程中扮演的角色日益重要。以进入中国的国际时尚品牌为切入点,重点探讨全球化在城市消费领域的影响。根据本项研究的概念界定,35个时尚消费城市大都为省会城市、直辖市和经济发达的沿海城市。其中,上海和北京是中国等级最高的时尚消费城市,无论是发展规模还是水平都遥遥领先。大部分时尚消费城市则是区域性中心城市,但也有一些沿海经济发达城市,虽然其城市中心性并不强(如苏州、温州、无锡等),但在时尚消费城市体系中占据了重要的地位。整体而言,中国时尚消费城市的发展受到多方面因素的影响,其中市场因素和开放度起着最为重要的作用。另外,产业氛围也是时尚消费城市形成和发展的重要基础。
[汪明峰, 孙莹. 全球化与中国时尚消费城市的兴起
. 地理研究, 2013, 32(12): 2334-2345.]
https://doi.org/10.11821/dlyj201312027URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
在当前中国经济转型和产业升级的背景下,许多城市开始步入后工业化阶段,消费在城市化进程中扮演的角色日益重要。以进入中国的国际时尚品牌为切入点,重点探讨全球化在城市消费领域的影响。根据本项研究的概念界定,35个时尚消费城市大都为省会城市、直辖市和经济发达的沿海城市。其中,上海和北京是中国等级最高的时尚消费城市,无论是发展规模还是水平都遥遥领先。大部分时尚消费城市则是区域性中心城市,但也有一些沿海经济发达城市,虽然其城市中心性并不强(如苏州、温州、无锡等),但在时尚消费城市体系中占据了重要的地位。整体而言,中国时尚消费城市的发展受到多方面因素的影响,其中市场因素和开放度起着最为重要的作用。另外,产业氛围也是时尚消费城市形成和发展的重要基础。
[23]Watson M Z, Yan R.An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers
. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2013, 17(2): 141-159.
https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-02-2011-0045URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
ABSTRACT Purpose ‐ The purpose of the study is to explore the differences between fast fashion and slow fashion consumers in regards to their consumer decision process stages (i.e. purchase/consumption, post-consumption evaluation, and divestment). Design/methodology/approach ‐ Qualitative data were collected via focus groups and personal interviews. Participants were recruited through flyers that were posted at various locations, including a college campus, select retail stores, and www.craigslist.com The sample consisted of 38 participants, 22 fast fashion and 16 slow fashion. All participants were female, 18 years of age or older, with a mean age of 21.2 years. Findings ‐ Three groups of themes emerged. The purchase/consumption themes were buyers' remorse avoidance, utilitarianism, hedonism, and style/self-image congruence. The post-consumption evaluation themes included instant satisfaction vs continued satisfaction and consumer expectation confirmation. Finally, the divestment themes consisted of divestment frequencies, divestment reasons, and divestment approaches. Research limitations/implications ‐ This study explored the purchase and post-purchase stages of the Consumer Decision Process (CDP) model. This particular focus on the CDP model, in the context of fast (vs slow) fashion, has not been researched in the past. Additionally, this research adds to the body of knowledge by utilizing the CDP model to understand the differences between fast fashion and slow fashion consumers. Practical implications ‐ Fast fashion and slow fashion retailers may use this research to better understand their target markets by understanding why they choose to purchase/consume, what influences their post-consumption evaluation, and how and why they choose to divest their clothing. Originality/value ‐ Past research has demonstrated the importance of understanding the supply chain and business model aspect of fast fashion. However, no empirical studies have been found that examine the decision-making process of consumers of fast (vs slow) fashion.
[24]Arnett J J.The psychology of globalization
. American Psychologist, 2002, 57(10): 774-783.
[本文引用: 2]
[25]Hao Jia, Zhou Yijin.Dual consumer cultural identities in globalizing markets and their impacts on brand name positioning
. International Economics and Trade Research, 2010, 26(9): 66-71.
URL [本文引用: 1]

[郝佳, 周懿瑾. 全球化市场中消费者双重身份认同与品名定位
. 国际经贸探索, 2010, 26(9): 66-71.]
URL [本文引用: 1]
[26]Lin Geng, Wang Lianjun.Placeness and spaciality of bar under globalization: Case of Guangzhou City, China
. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2011, 31(7): 794-801.
URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
在全球化背景下,以广州代表性酒吧为对象,援引第三空间理论和空间生产理论,采用质性研究方法,从消费地理视角解读酒吧的地方性和空间性,重新诠释地方理论以及人地关系认识论。研究表明,广州环市东酒吧的空间建构包括了一种本土对西方、当下本土对历史本土的再结构化过程。在空间实践-空间想象-再现空间三元一体的维度下,酒吧作为地方具有典型的反身性,酒吧影响着主体行为,行为主体构筑的权力话语也成为酒吧空间的意义构成,涉入酒吧消费空间的建构过程。作为一个具有主体性的消费空间,酒吧具有空间生产、空间消费和空间流动的特质。
[林耿, 王炼军. 全球化背景下酒吧的地方性与空间性: 以广州为例
. 地理科学, 2011, 31(7): 794-801.]
URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
在全球化背景下,以广州代表性酒吧为对象,援引第三空间理论和空间生产理论,采用质性研究方法,从消费地理视角解读酒吧的地方性和空间性,重新诠释地方理论以及人地关系认识论。研究表明,广州环市东酒吧的空间建构包括了一种本土对西方、当下本土对历史本土的再结构化过程。在空间实践-空间想象-再现空间三元一体的维度下,酒吧作为地方具有典型的反身性,酒吧影响着主体行为,行为主体构筑的权力话语也成为酒吧空间的意义构成,涉入酒吧消费空间的建构过程。作为一个具有主体性的消费空间,酒吧具有空间生产、空间消费和空间流动的特质。
[27]Alden D L, Steenkamp J B E M, Batra R. Consumer attitudes toward market place globalization: Structure, antecedents and consequences
. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 2006, 23(3): 227-239.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijresmar.2006.01.010URL [本文引用: 2]摘要
This study examines relationships between a new measure of consumer attitudes toward consumption alternatives resulting from market globalization, several attitudinal antecedents (materialism, susceptibility to normative influence and consumer ethnocentrism), and a hypothesized consequence of these attitudes preference for global brands. Following validation of the new measure in three culturally distinct markets, South Korea, the US, and China, the hypothesized antecedents and consequence are tested in South Korea. Empirical findings broadly support hypotheses and provide important implications for future research on market globalization.
[28]Appadurai A.Modernity at Large: Cultural Dimensions of Globalization. Minneapolls, London: University of Minnesota Press, 1996. [本文引用: 2]

[阿尔君·阿帕杜莱. 消散的现代性: 全球化的文化维度. 刘冉, 译. 上海: 三联书店, 2012.] [本文引用: 2]
[29]Werff E V D, Steg L, Keizer K. The value of environmental self-identity: The relationship between biospheric values, environmental self-identity and environmental preferences, intentions and behaviour
. Journal of Environmental Psychology, 2013, 34(1): 55-63.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvp.2012.12.006URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
Biospheric values and environmental self-identities are considered to be important antecedents of environmental preferences, intentions, and behaviour. Although various authors suggest a relationship between values and self-identity, this has rarely been studied empirically. This paper aimed to clarify the relationship between biospheric values and environmental self-identity and to study how both are related to environmental preferences, intentions, and behaviour. We hypothesized that biospheric values are related to environmental self-identity, and that self-identity is in turn related to preferences, intentions, and behaviour. Results of three studies including a wide range of environmental preferences, intentions, and behaviour support our reasoning and show that biospheric values are related to environmental self-identity, even when measured months before. Moreover, we found that the relationship between biospheric values and environmental preferences, intentions and behaviour was fully mediated by environmental self-identity, indicating that biospheric values are related to preferences, intentions, and behaviour via one's environmental self-identity. This suggests that values need to be linked to the self in order to be influential in choices made. (C) 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
[30]McDonald S, Oates C J, Thyne M, et al. Flying in the face of environmental concern: why green consumers continue to fly
. Journal of Marketing Management, 2015, 31(13/14): 1503-1528.
https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2015.1059352URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
Some unsustainable consumer behaviours have proved extremely hard to change or even challenge. Despite the fact that flying can be more damaging than any other activity that an individual can undertake, many otherwise green consumers still choose to fly, offering an opportunity to elicit narratives about the differences between their attitudes and behaviours. Qualitative interview data were gathered from self-selected green consumers and set within a cognitive dissonance analytical framework. Four strategies were uncovered: not changing travel behaviour (but offering justifications related to travel product, travel context or personal identity); reducing or restricting flights; changing other behaviours to compensate for flying; and stopping flying. This analysis furthers research on green consumer rationales for (un)sustainable behaviours and suggests several avenues for sustainable marketing management.
[31]Steenkamp J B E M, Batra R, Alden D L. How perceived brand globalness creates brand value
. Journal of International Business Studies, 2003, 34(1): 53-65.
https://doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.339365URL [本文引用: 2]摘要
ABSTRACT In today's multinational marketplace, it is increasingly important to understand why some consumers prefer global brands to local brands. We delineate three pathways through which perceived brand globalness (PBG) influences the likelihood of brand purchase. Using consumer data from the U.S.A. and Korea, we find that PBG is positively related to both perceived brand quality and prestige and, through them, to purchase likelihood. The effect through perceived quality is strongest. PBG effects are weaker for more ethnocentric consumers. Journal of International Business Studies (2003) 34, 53 65. doi:10.1057/palgrave.jibs.8400002
[32]Xie Y, Batra R, Peng S Q.An extended model of preference formation between global and local brands: The roles of identity expressiveness, trust, and affect
. Journal of International Marketing, 2015, 23(1): 50-71.
https://doi.org/10.1509/jim.14.0009URL [本文引用: 2]摘要
Abstract The authors propose an augmented conceptual model explaining consumer preferences for global brands versus local brands in emerging markets and test the model using data from a Chinese consumer sample. The model adds high brand-identity expressiveness as well as high trust and positive affect toward these brands. The results support these additions and replicate previous findings that brand quality and prestige are important links between perceived brand globalness (PBG) and perceived brand localness (PBL) and favorable behavioral intentions. The most novel finding is that both PBG and PBL can enhance a brand's identity expressiveness. The results establish the mediating roles of these additional variables between PBG/PBL and behavioral intentions and also identify the incremental explanatory value of these additional mediators, which have been neglected in previous global branding research. Furthermore, PBG which affects behavioral intentions through pathways of brand prestige, trust, and affect is more influential than PBL, which operates mainly through brand identity expressiveness.
[33]Koenig-Lewis N, Palmer A, Dermody J, et al.Consumers' evaluations of ecological packaging: Rational and emotional approaches
. Journal of Environmental Psychology, 2014, 37(3): 94-105.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvp.2013.11.009URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
Ecological marketing claims have been criticized for confusing or misleading buyers, leading to calls for more rationality in promoting and evaluating ‘green’ products. However, emotions are important drivers influencing pro-environmental purchase decisions. This study investigates consumers' emotional and rational evaluations of pro-environmental packaging. A conceptual model incorporates individuals' general environmental concerns, their rational beliefs about environmental effects of product consumption and emotions evoked. Hypotheses are tested with 312 Norwegian consumers who evaluated a beverage container incorporating organic material. Purchase intention was significantly influenced by general environmental concern, but not by rational evaluations of benefits. Rational evaluations had differing effects on positive and negative emotions. Both positive and negative emotions had significant direct effects on purchase intention. This paper contributes to evidence that emotions rather than rational evaluations are key drivers for changing pro-environmental purchase behavior and adds new knowledge about the role of negative emotions evoked by pro-environmental packaging.
[34]Belk R W.The ineluctable mysteries of possessions
. Journal of Social Behavior and Personality, 2010, 6(6): 17-55.
https://doi.org/10.1037/0022-3514.60.1.165URL [本文引用: 2]摘要
ABSTRACT Discusses the magical status possessions acquire when they transcend ordinary utilitarian status and suggests some concepts behind this phenomenon. Categories of special possessions include (1) parts of self (cosmetics, jewelry, clothing); (2) extensions of self (home, vehicle, pets); (3) objects of magic, science, and religion (icons, talismans, drugs); (4) memory laden objects (gifts, heirlooms); and (5) rare and mysterious possessions (treasure, relics of famous people). Tests for nonrational relations with objects are outlined. An eclectic set of concepts is presented to sketch theoretical perspectives that account for the mysteries of possessions. The concepts presented include fetishism, singularity and sacredness, self extension, and meaning displacement. (PsycINFO Database Record (c) 2012 APA, all rights reserved)
[35]Gatersleben B, Murtagh N, Abrahamse W.Values, identity and pro-environmental behaviour
. Contemporary Social Science Journal of the Academy of Social Sciences, 2012, 9(4): 374-392.
https://doi.org/10.1080/21582041.2012.682086URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
The importance of understanding and promoting pro-environmental behaviour among individual consumers in modern Western Societies is generally accepted. Attitudes and attitude change are often examined to help reach this goal. But although attitudes are relatively good predictors of behaviour and are relatively easy to change they only help explain specific behaviours. More stable individual factors such as values and identities may affect a wider range of behaviours. In particular factors which are important to the self are likely to influence behaviour across contexts and situations. This paper examines the role of values and identities in explaining individual pro-environmental behaviours. Secondary analyses were conducted on data from three studies on UK residents, with a total of 2694 participants. Values and identities were good predictors of pro-environmental behaviour in each study and identities explain pro-environmental behaviours over and above specific attitudes. The link between values and behaviours was fully mediated by identities in two studies and partially mediated in one study supporting the idea that identities may be broader concepts which incorporate values. The findings lend support for the concept of identity campaigning to promote sustainable behaviour. Moreover, it suggests fruitful future research directions which should explore the development and maintenance of identities.
[36]Kellner D.Media Culture: Cultural Studies, Identity and Politics between the Modern and the Postmodern
. London, New York: Routledge, 1995.
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[道格拉斯·凯尔纳. 媒体文化: 介于现代与后现代之间的文化研究、认同性与政治
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[37]Ritzer G.The McDonaldization of Society. London: Sage, 1996. [本文引用: 1]

[乔治·里泽. 麦当劳梦魇: 社会的麦当劳化. 容冰, 译. 北京: 中信出版社, 2006.] [本文引用: 1]
[38]Tungate M.Fashion Brands: Branding Style from Armani to Zara
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https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1540-5931.2006.00316.xURL [本文引用: 1]摘要
Includes bibliographical references and index
[39]Xue F.It looks green: Effects of green visuals in advertising on Chinese consumers' brand perception
. Journal of International Consumer Marketing, 2014, 26(1): 75-86.
https://doi.org/10.1080/08961530.2014.848094URL摘要
ABSTRACT This study examined the effects of green visuals in advertising on Chinese consumers green brand associations and advertising responses. Multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) was run with verbal and visual environmental information as between-group variables and product involvement as a within-group variable. In general, the use of green visuals led to more positive advertising responses and more favorable perception of the brand's environmental effort. If no green visual was available, the use of verbal environmental claims could generate more positive green brand associations. In addition, the impact of green visuals was stronger for low-involvement products, compared to high-involvement products, in terms of green brand associations.
[40]Bentler P M, Chou C P.Practical issues in structural modeling
. Sociological Methods & Research, 1987, 16(1): 78-117.
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[41]Bagozzi R P, Yi Y.Specification, evaluation, and interpretation of structural equation models
. Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science, 2012, 40(1): 8-34.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s11747-011-0278-xURLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
We provide a comprehensive and user-friendly compendium of standards for the use and interpretation of structural equation models (SEMs). To both read about and do research that employs SEMs, it is necessary to master the art and science of the statistical procedures underpinning SEMs in an integrative way with the substantive concepts, theories, and hypotheses that researchers desire to examine. Our aim is to remove some of the mystery and uncertainty of the use of SEMs, while conveying the spirit of their possibilities.
[42]Gerbing D W, Hamilton J G.Validity of exploratory factor analysis as a precursor to confirmatory factor analysis
. Structural Equation Modeling: A Multidisciplinary Journal, 1996, 3(1): 62-72.
https://doi.org/10.1080/10705519609540030URL [本文引用: 1]摘要
ABSTRACT As part of the development of a comprehensive strategy for structural equation model building and assessment, a Monte Carlo study evaluated the effectiveness of different exploratory factor analysis extraction and rotation methods for correctly identifying the known population multiple‐indicator measurement model. The exploratory methods fared well in recovering the model except in small sample sizes with highly correlated factors, and even in those situations most of the indicators were correctly assigned to the factors. Surprisingly, the orthogonal varimax rotation did as well as the more sophisticated oblique rotations in recovering the model, and generally yielded more accurate estimates. These results demonstrate that exploratory factor analysis can contribute to a useful heuristic strategy for model specification prior to cross‐validation with confirmatory factor analysis.
[43]Anderson J C, Gerbing D W.Structural equation modeling in practice: A review and recommended two-step approach
. Psychological Bulletin, 1988, 103(3): 411-423.
https://doi.org/10.1037/0033-2909.103.3.411URL [本文引用: 2]摘要
In this article, we provide guidance for substantive researchers on the use of structural equation modeling in practice for theory testing and development. We present a comprehensive, two-step modeling approach that employs a series of nested models and sequential chi-square difference tests. We discuss the comparative advantages of this approach over a one-step approach. Considerations in specification, assessment of fit, and respecification of measurement models using confirmatory factor analysis are reviewed. As background to the two-step approach, the distinction between exploratory and confirmatory analysis, the distinction between complementary approaches for theory testing versus predictive application, and some developments in estimation methods also are discussed.
[44]Liu Bo, Zhu Hong.Transnational upgrading of ZARA: Perspective of spatial-temporal history
. Tropical Geography, 2016, 36(2): 174-180.
https://doi.org/10.13284/j.cnki.rddl.002817URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
全球化使品牌与地方之间的联系日益密切。西方国家的快时尚品牌实行全球同价、全球同款和标准化的经营模式,被认为具有消极的品牌形象,然而却在异源文化背景的中国实现品牌升级。以ZARA为例,从时间和空间2个维度出发,描述其品牌空间发展史,分析品牌源地、空间发展、店铺选址等参与快时尚品牌的文化生产过程。结论如下:1)快时尚品牌与全球时尚城市建立积极联系,将全球时尚城市想象写入品牌发展史中,品牌空间发展史比品牌源地对品牌形象的影响更大;2)ZARA与全球时尚城市互动成功塑造全球时尚品牌形象,“全球”品牌头衔对于中国本土向往全球化的消费者来说具有很强的吸引力,对于其跨国升级有积极影响;3)ZARA在中国大陆的品牌空间发展依然延续“下沉式”模式,利用上海、北京、深圳、广州等地在全国时尚产业中的引领地位影响二级城市消费者的品牌选择,实现其跨国品牌升级;4)专卖店选址于高端消费街区,在跨国过程中重新定位于中高端消费群体,使得ZARA实现跨国品牌升级。
[刘博, 朱竑. ZARA跨国品牌升级: 空间发展史视角
. 热带地理, 2016, 36(2): 174-180.]
https://doi.org/10.13284/j.cnki.rddl.002817URLMagsci [本文引用: 1]摘要
全球化使品牌与地方之间的联系日益密切。西方国家的快时尚品牌实行全球同价、全球同款和标准化的经营模式,被认为具有消极的品牌形象,然而却在异源文化背景的中国实现品牌升级。以ZARA为例,从时间和空间2个维度出发,描述其品牌空间发展史,分析品牌源地、空间发展、店铺选址等参与快时尚品牌的文化生产过程。结论如下:1)快时尚品牌与全球时尚城市建立积极联系,将全球时尚城市想象写入品牌发展史中,品牌空间发展史比品牌源地对品牌形象的影响更大;2)ZARA与全球时尚城市互动成功塑造全球时尚品牌形象,“全球”品牌头衔对于中国本土向往全球化的消费者来说具有很强的吸引力,对于其跨国升级有积极影响;3)ZARA在中国大陆的品牌空间发展依然延续“下沉式”模式,利用上海、北京、深圳、广州等地在全国时尚产业中的引领地位影响二级城市消费者的品牌选择,实现其跨国品牌升级;4)专卖店选址于高端消费街区,在跨国过程中重新定位于中高端消费群体,使得ZARA实现跨国品牌升级。
[45]Friedman J.Culture Identity and Global Process
. London: Sage, 1994.
URL [本文引用: 1]

[乔纳森·弗里德曼著. 高建如, 译. 文化认同与全球性过程
. 北京: 商务印书馆, 2004.]
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[46]Hughes A, Reimer S. Commodity Chains. Harlow: Pearson Education, 2003. [本文引用: 1]
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