DOI: 10.11908/j.issn.0253-374x.20450

作者:

作者单位: 1.大连海事大学 交通运输工程学院，辽宁 大连 116026;2.大连理工大学 海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室，辽宁 大连 116024;3.厦门理工学院 土木工程与建筑学院，福建 厦门 361024


作者简介: 王 彦（1982—），男，讲师，工学博士，主要研究方向为海岸水动力学。E-mail:ywang0412@163.com


通讯作者: 房克照（1980—），男，副教授，博士生导师，工学博士，主要研究方向为海岸水动力学。 E-mail：kfang@ dlut.edu.cn

中图分类号: P73


基金项目: 国家重点研发计划(2019YFC1407700);国家自然科学基金 (51779022);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金 (3132019024)




Experimental Study of Rip Currents of Intersecting Irregular Waves
Author:

Affiliation: 1.College of Transportation Engineering，Dalian Maritime University，Dalian 116026，China;2.State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering，Dalian University of Technology，Dalian 116024，China;3.School of Civil Engineering and Architecture，Xiamen University of Technology，Xiamen 361024，China


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摘要:为研究随机波浪遇丁坝反射形成的裂流的特征，进行了沙坝地形丁坝反射所形成的叠加波浪生成裂流的实验。研究结果表明，沿岸一致的沙坝地形使得所形成的裂流主要受控于沿岸周期性变化叠加波浪。裂流的驱动力主要取决于节腹点之间的平均水面沿岸压力梯度，而节腹点波高差异形成的沿岸辐射应力贡献很小，驱动力的量值与范围受到波浪周期的影响。裂流的位置和宽度完全受控于波浪节点，叠加波浪场在叠加区沿岸方向上形成交替出现的环流系统和大尺度涡，此环流系统由围绕波浪节点的离岸裂流、围绕波浪腹点的向岸流和由波腹点向波节点汇聚的沿岸方向的补偿流组成。



Abstract:To better understand the characteristics of rip current caused by crossing irregular waves，an experimental study of rip current caused by intersecting irregular waves over barred beaches was conducted. The barred beach without rip channel was adopted to eliminate the inconsistency of coastal topography caused by the rip channel，so that the rip currents was mainly controlled by the node points of waves. The driving force of the rip current is mainly the mean water surface pressure gradient pointing to the node，while the radiation stress caused by wave height contributes little due to the change of wave height along the break zone. The magnitude and range of the driving force are affected by the period. The location and width of rip currents are controlled by the wave node points. The cross-wave field forms an alternate circulation system and large-scale vortex in the alongshore direction. The circulation system includes the rip currents around the wave node points，the onshore current around the wave anti-node points，and the longshore feeder currents from the anti-node to the wave node points.





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